A walk in Zion made me feel like I was on another planet.
I really didn’t know anything about Zion National Park or the Narrows. I knew it was in Utah, and have seen some pretty amazing photos from there, but that is about the extent of it. Dan Klein (www.mythreefiftynine.com), had been there and insisted that we spend at least a day there as part of our trip to the Grand Canyon. Knowing that Dan never lets me down, we made plans to make it happen.
After completing the rim to rim hike, our group of 9 hikers and 2 support people loaded our tired legs into the rental vans and took the 2.5 hour drive from the north rim to Zion. Of course we stopped enroute for a nice lunch at the Cowboy Butte Grill and Steakhouse in Freedonia, AZ. I would encourage you to do the same if passing through in your travels. We made it to our destination just outside Zion National Park at a great lodging facility known as Zion Mountain Ranch (https://www.zmr.com) just minutes from the gate the ranch offered beautiful cabins and a wonderful view.
We were able to drive into the park in the afternoon on the day of our arrival just to check it out and get acquainted. We parked at the visitor’s center and took the park bus down the line to the lodge for a quick beer before heading back to the cabin. My first impressions of Zion were conflicted, with large crowds and moderate traffic countered by unimaginable scenery and beautiful vistas. One thing was for certain, I had never seen anything like it. I was excited about exploring the park a bit further the next day, and plans were made to get an early start the next morning.
There was some discussion among the group about whether we should hike the Narrows or Angel’s Landing. I understand that there are multiple hiking opportunities in the park and all of them beautiful, but these are the two iconic hikes that many associate with the park. We settled on the Narrows, hoping that the cold water would provide a sense of relief for our aching legs.
The Narrows is a slot canyon home to the Virgin River, and canyon walls sometimes are only 20’-30’ apart and can be up to 2,000 feet high. Most of the hike actually takes place within the river bed itself, so hikers must come prepared with closed toed shoes or boots and walking sticks to protect from the fast current and slippery rocks. To access the trailhead, you must take the park bus to the Temple of Sinawava, then walk on a paved trail along side the Virgin River for approximately one mile. Once in the river you can hike as far as Big Spring (10 mile round trip), or just a few hundred yards before turning back. And, like much of Zion, you must be prepared to share the hike with hundreds if not thousands of your closest friends…
Our group of nine crowded onto the bus and made it to the last stop on the route. After using the restrooms and filling our water bottles, we started the walk along the stream on the paved path. The trail was actually rather beautiful, with tall cliffs on both sides, hanging gardens, and birds singing and flying all along the trail. But I felt like I was on a busy city street hustling off to work – if I slowed to take a photo I about get ran over by the line of people rushing along towards the river. The path was wide, but really just enough room for one line towards the river and one line heading back to trailhead. Once we finally made it to the river and had some room to move about, it was all worth it.
Wading in the river, looking up at the canyon walls, and taking it all in really was spectacular. The cold water was a relief from the heat and just what the doctor ordered for tired, sore legs. For the most part the water was knee deep or less, although there were some deeper holes that could be found where you could almost swim. There were also a few gravel bars along the way where you could get out of the water and gain some ground or even just rest in the shade for a few. Water shoes are available for rent from vendors outside the park, but we all just wore tennis shoes and did just fine. Walking sticks were a must and helped avoid many falls. Although very crowded, the people were congenial and taking it all in just like we were so it didn’t seem overwhelming.
We did find an American Dipper nest about head-high in a small crevice of the canyon walls. The 2 parent birds were very actively foraging and feeding the hungry nestlings. The parents were totally unfazed by people, landing just inches from us and flying almost between our legs. You can see a very poor quality video here:
We also were joined by a lone mule deer walking right down the middle of the stream like the rest of us. She was also unfazed by the crowd and seemed very comfortable. She even stopped and went to the bathroom right in the middle of the river among the hikers, much to the amusement of many. Video here:
Our walk back to the trailhead seemed even more crowded than the way in as many were seeking relief from the mid-day heat. We had dinner reservations at the lodge at 5:00 giving me a few hours to kill, so I took a short hike in the shadow of Angel’s Landing and waded in the Virgin River some more. I was hoping that I could catch a glimpse of a California condor flying high, but had no luck. I did see more deer, wild turkey, peregrine falcons, yellow warblers, and more turkey vultures than I could count. And the best part, the only people I saw were thousands of feet above me on the trail to Angel’s Landing.
Zion National Park is totally worth a visit, and there is enough to do for several days. It is family friendly, with many opportunities to explore depending on your interests and skills. This is not meant to be a review of all that the park has to offer, but really just a taste of what is there. Someday I would like to stay in the lodge or camp and spend more time checking it out. The crowds are an issue, but as you can see even in a short visit I was able to find solitude and peace even in close proximity to the busiest attractions. I was not excited about the buses, but they really are constantly moving and rarely did I have much of a wait anywhere. Again I feel fortunate that past generations have preserved some of the truly unique and wild places and maintained them in order for us to enjoy them now. It is our responsibility to continue to save these lands for the future. Once you lay your eyes on Zion National Park, I have no doubt you will agree with me completely.
Of course you can check out the website for Zion National Park for more information:
https://www.nps.gov/zion/index.htm
I have been trying to learn how to use the GoPro camera and edit the videos. Totally a work in progress for me, but there is promise. These are not narrated but can be viewed by clicking here or the MO-Outdoors channel on YouTube.
Driving tour of Zion (including the mile long tunnel through a mountain)
The Narrows at Zion: