Grand Canyon Rim to Rim; Version 2017.5

I have to admit that I knew almost nothing about this place before making the trip, but Phantom Ranch is one of a kind.  This little piece of heaven is located near the confluence of Bright Angel Creek and the Colorado River.  It is also just steps away from Bright Angel Campground.  Phantom Ranch consists of several rustic buildings, as I understand were built in 1922.  All of the building materials were hauled into the canyon on mules, except the stone which came from the area.  There are several small cabins, a male and female dormitory, and a small canteen selling snacks, first aid supplies, postcards, etc.  They do serve an early breakfast and a steak dinner (reservations needed for both), and provide a sack lunch if you order ahead.  I believe that they have a pay phone as well.  Everything must be paid for with a credit card, no cash accepted.  Reservations to stay at Phantom Ranch are very difficult to obtain and are done on a lottery system.  It’s really difficult to believe that this place is really located in the bottom of the Grand Canyon.  

 

Someday I will stay at Phantom Ranch for a few days and truly get to enjoy all that it has to offer, but on this hot day in June 2017 all I got was one glorious hour.  The nine of us sat at a picnic table, refilled our camelbaks from the spigot, and kicked off our shoes and socks.  We ate our pre-ordered sack lunches, an odd assortment that included an apple, granola bar, summer sausage, cookies, pretzels, bagel/cream cheese, and drink mix. We compared notes with fellow travelers, including a group of younger aged women who were on their second leg of a rim to rim to rim, having gone south to north the day before and now were heading back south.  I’m not too proud to admit that they as a group they were faring a bit better than us.  We bought lemonade, mailed postcards, prayed together, and enjoyed our moment in the oasis.

 

But it was over too soon.  Dan was prodding us along, onward and upward.  I was torn.  My body was beat up, I was tired, and I was worried about the uphill journey ahead.  The words of the park ranger were in my head, remembering that she told us to sit in the creek as long as possible and get cooled off.  Take a few hours to rest at the ranch before continuing up, she cautioned.  Among the group there were concerns about cramping up if we sat too long, as well as chafing if we got our clothes wet.  And I couldn’t decide what was best for me, so I didn’t protest and we saddled up to hit the path again.  Here is one of my favorite photos of the trip, our group just before leaving Phantom Ranch.  I must say we look good.

 

Leaving Phantom Ranch near Bright Angel Campground.  Notice the size of the trees and the lush vegetation in the bottom of the canyon.

 

We began walking towards the Colorado River, which brought us near Bright Angel Campground and the last leg of Bright Angel Creek.  Several groups of people, some campers I suspect, some staying at the ranch for a few days, and a few day hikers lounged in the cold rushing water.  I must admit that I was envious, wishing that I could join them for just a few minutes.  No doubt a life experience I will partake in next time around. We were taking Bright Angel trail, so we were seeking the silver bridge.  The silver bridge was built sometime in the 1960’s and is an amazing suspension bridge over the the Colorado River.  It is within sight distance of the black bridge, a much older suspension bridge that leads to the South Kaibab trail.  

 

 

Not far past the helipad, there it is.  The bridge looked like it was mile long.  I was not sure how I would feel about crossing it, but it was exhilarating.  The bridge certainly felt sturdy, and the river was nothing short of breathtaking.  I was impressed by the sheer power of the current, and the rolling water was mesmerizing.  The bridge is narrow, really only room for 1 person at a time although you could squeeze by another as needed.  The next mile or two offered some other great vantage points of the river, but it was along this stretch that the trail began to show its teeth.  Things were about to get tough.

Rafters on Colorado River – I will have to try that someday