September 1, 2020
Ben and I found ourselves with an open weekend in late July, and were looking for an adventure. Hiking to Stegall Mountain and camping along the Ozark Trail proved to be the perfect solution. We had the Ozark Trail, wild horses, venomous snakes, a spectacular sunset, and the perfect swimming hole to cool off in when it was all over. Of course it was crazy hot and chiggers were plentiful, but that’s what you get summer camping in Missouri.
Shaking the dust off the pack
It had been quite a while since either of us had hiked in and camped away from a designated camping area. I had to break out my Kelty pack, just big enough for a quick weekend getaway. Combined with Ben’s even smaller pack, we managed to fit enough gear, food and water to get through at least one night out. I had a bit of anxiety about the trip, hoping that we would pack enough to be comfortable but not so much that it would weigh us down. We also carried a bit of extra anxiety not knowing the terrain where we would be sleeping for the night.
Starter hike
We chose Stegall Mountain because we had never been there and its been on the “To Do” list for quite a while. It was also helpful that we could keep the hike pretty short to keep things on the easier side. Hiking from Rocky Falls to the summit of Stegall Moutan was essentially a 3 mile hike. The plan was to hike in and set up camp, then wander the area for a bit. Then we wanted to wake up early and get back to Rocky Falls for a swim before the popular swimming hole got too crowded. For once, things seemed to go fairly smoothly for us novice backpackers.
Ozark Trail
One of my biggest concerns is where we should park our car. While there are some nice trailheadS and known parking areas nearby, those would require longer hikes. I couldn’t find any information and didn’t see any signage regarding overnight parking at Rocky Falls, so decided to take the risk and give it a try. We somehow lucked into a good parking spot amid the madness of a crowded Saturday afternoon full of swimmers. After watching the crowds for a few minutes, we grabbed our packs, waded across the creek, and set out for Stegall Mountain.
The first 1/2 mile of the trail runs along clear Rocky Creek. This portion of the trail is maintained by the forest service and is not part of the Ozark Trail. After the easy, flat beginning we reached the weathered Ozark Trail marker. We took a right turn and began the easy uphill hike through the open woods towards Stegall Mountain. I love seeing the OT markers on the trail and am always thankful for the spectacular trail system we have in Missouri. Very rarely did we have to guess where we were going and there were plenty of locations where we could see that fallen trees had been cleared away from the path.
Wild horses
About 1 mile in from the parking lot, I started noticing evidence along the trail that horses had been around. As soon as I mentioned it to Ben, we heard a rustle and saw a herd of wild horses about 50 yards off the trail. They are known to frequent this area between here and Klepzig Mill, but I still was not expecting to see them. The herd was shy, acting very much like wild animals as they ran from us and stayed out of sight. I managed a few photos but they were not cooperative subjects.
Uphill
One of my favorite spots along this trail was almost exactly 2 miles from the parking lot. A large stand of shortleaf pine breaks up the monotony of the woods and provided a great spot to rest and have a quick snack. From here, the trail takes a series of switchbacks through mixed hardwoods and glades before eventually reaching the large glade at Stegall Mountain. Ben and I arrived here mid-afternoon and began searching for a campsite. We quickly found a few obvious sites where people had camped before, but they were literally right on the Ozark Trail. Eventually we followed the side trail to Stegall fire tower and found a perfect spot in the woods not too far from the glade.
Wanderings
After setting up camp, we started off wandering the side trail to the fire tower. This trail leads past the summit of Stegall Mountain, providing a grand view of the glade and the surrounding Ozarks. It’s difficult calling it a summit, but I guess its just a slightly higher hill than the rest of the area. The trail led us through another beautiful stand of pines and eventually to the forest service road. We followed the road uphill to the fire tower, but chose not to climb it. Instead we found a large boulder to sit on in the glade and soaked it all in.
Getting hungry, we started the trek back to camp. Ben took the lead here, his teenage stomach adding a bit of urgency to his stride. Suddenly he stopped in his tracks and stepped back to me and pointed to the ground in front of him. A large timber rattlesnake was in the middle of the trail, rattling a warning for us to keep our distance. We took several photos and admired the beautiful snake from a safe distance. Eventually we walked through the woods to pass and continued on.
Evening at camp
We enjoyed an easy meal of macaroni and cheese and Mountain House lasagna. A few cookies for dessert then back into the glade to watch the sunset. The cicadas, katydids and seemingly ever other insect on the planet were present and noisy as can be. To talk even close together we had to speak up to be heard. So instead Ben and I sat in silence, comfortably soaking up the evening nestled into a crevice on a large boulder. It’s moments like this, sitting together enjoying the outdoors for simply what it is, that I always remember long after I have returned home to the grind and noise that is everyday life. Finally we dragged ourselves back uphill to our tents and enjoyed the last few minutes of the sunset from our campsite.
I envisioned utilizing our remote location in the wilderness to sit up and watch the stars. However, the constant buzzing insects and related exhaustion sent us into the tent shortly after nightfall. It was hot, still in the 90’s I’m sure, with only a slight breeze. We both managed to get some sleep though, and woke up excited for the day ahead of us. After a quick breakfast of cereal and honeybuns, we broke camp and glided through the easy hike back to Rocky Falls.
A few notes
We had to carry in the water we would need as we weren’t sure about any water source near the mountain. This proved to be a good idea. We also had cellular service pretty much the entire hike. In fact, the service at our campsite was better then it is at my home in St. Louis County. Not sure if this is good or bad but thought I would share. Lastly, Ben and I had the entire place to ourselves. We did not see anyone at all from the minute we left Rocky Falls until the minute we returned. Maybe no one else was stupid enough to go camping in these temperatures but I’m ok with that.
Rocky Falls
Our plan worked perfectly. Ben and I made it back to our car around 10:00 to find everything in one piece. Only 2-3 other cars were in the lot, apparently a few families staking out the picnic areas for the day. We jumped into the cold water of the shut-ins. There is simply no better way to wash off the dirt, grime and itchiness that comes with a summertime camp out than soaking in an Ozark stream. Refreshed, we retuned to the car for a snack and a cold drink to make our plans for the rest of the day.
Big Springs
Somehow neither of us had ever been to Big Springs near Van Buren. We couldn’t pass up the chance to see the largest spring in Missouri, so off we went. After meandering around the park and checking out the campground area for future trips, we parked near the spring and took the short walk right up to it. Big Spring certainly was very impressive, the noise and power of the water a sight to see. I look forward to returning to the park and spending a day or two roaming some of the many trails. But Ben’s stomach again was growling, leading us to lunch in nearby Van Buren. He bypassed The Godfather’s Pizza just outside the park and opted instead for the legendary Jolly Cone.
Full of burgers, chicken fingers, and French fries we pointed the car north and headed home. I enjoyed the scenic drive through the Ozarks while reflecting on our trip. Stegall Mountain proved to be a worthy destination getting back into backpacking. We agreed to aim for a few more miles on our next trip, but still wanted to keep in simple. It’s fun to think about the possibilities. For now, though, I’m just thankful for the time in the MO-Outdoors with my son.
For more information about the places we visited, check out these links:
https://nature.mdc.mo.gov/discover-nature/places/stegall-mountain
Dan klein
Loved it! Thanks for sharing as always.