If I only knew then what I know now….
So I really entered into this crazy rim to rim hike across the Grand Canyon without very much information. I was riding the coattails of a trusted friend, and just figured that if I worked hard enough I would get it done. It turns out that I was right, but it also turns out that I was pretty lucky. While I did some things that worked out favorably, there were certainly some mistakes in my preparations and things that I could have done better. I would like to share some of these with you in case you get the bug to do your own rim to rim someday.
THE GOOD:
- Trekking Poles. I purchased mine from Amazon for $50 a pair. They are sold under the name “Montem”, and I purchased largely because of the positive reviews and the price point. These ones have cork handles, which I like but is a matter of preference, and telescope down small enough to fit into 22” suitcase. There are many options out there, including some for several hundred dollars. I suggest finding some that you like, training with them, and use them on the downhill and uphill portions of the hike. Some sources recommended trekking poles as optional, but I couldn’t have finished without them.
- Hydration Pack. I use a CamelBak “Rim Runner 22” with a 100 ml bladder. This pack is larger than just a hydration pack and has room for extra water bottle, socks, food, first aid kit, and storage for trekking poles. Anything bigger would have been too much. The pack is fully adjustable and I trained with it on as much as possible and found it to be comfortable.
- Merrell Boots and Merino Wool Socks. I wore mid-height hiking boots and high quality Merino wool socks. I wear boots every day for work, and these are lighter than my work boots. They kept my foot from sliding on the downhill trek, which was a problem I had while trying out trail runners to see if I wanted to use those for the hike. I didn’t get any blisters until the last 3 miles, and as I said it was in a really unusual place on rear outer edge of my foot. Everyone else in my group wore some sort of trail shoe, and they all seemed happy with them but I also think that they all got blisters and got them early on. Spend a few extra dollars and bring at least two extra pair of socks and change them out during the hike. Use a safety pin to hang onto the pack to let them dry out while hiking.
- Cross Training. I did all sorts of different training to help me get in shape for the hike. I ran, walked, did stair climber, lifted weights, biked, swam, and did as many hikes as I could find time for. I tried to work on endurance over speed, and often would hike/bike/jog for 3-4 hours at a time while Billy had soccer practice. The variety helped break up the monotony of training and swimming/biking helped reduce stress on joints before the hike.
- Hiking. I do feel like I did a decent amount of hikes preparing for the rim to rim. I tried to use my same gear and eat the same food that I would be using on the hike and so I could work out any kinks. The longer the hike the better, of course, as well as one with lots of hills. I feel strongly that the more hiking you can do prior to the rim to rim to better off you will be. This sounds silly but I think actually putting on your boots, your pack, and grabbing your trekking poles is way more effective training than running hill cycles on your treadmill in the air conditioned gym.
- Cotton Shirt. There is actually a tremendous amount of debate on this topic out there, but the cotton shirt worked well for me. While typically in Missouri I wear some sort of dry-fit shirt to help keep me cool, cotton was my choice for the canyon. The theory is that the dry-fit type shirts wick away the sweat so quickly in the dry heat that your sweat doesn’t have time to provide any cooling effect. The cotton shirt will slow this process down, but the dry heat wins out soon enough and evaporates the sweat after it has had chance to cool you off. The biggest advantage for me was that the shirt held water, so I could take it off, drench it in a cool creek or spigot, and then put it back on. It would cool me off quickly, but usually within 15 minutes it was already completely dry again. A quality broad rimmed hat with neck strap also helped cool me off.
- The Driver. Having David around to check out of our cabins on the north rim, drive around to the other side and get those accommodations ready, and to meet us at the top with refreshments was brilliant. He also could communicate with our spouses as he could see us on the trail below to let them know we were still kicking. I strongly recommend finding a “David” to go along on the trip and help with the shuttling and the logistics.
THE BAD:
- While I did plenty of training, I did not do adequate hills and stairs training. The stairs in the Grand Canyon are big stairs, not the 7” stairs like in most buildings. Anyone training seriously for this hike needs to spend a significant time running hills, running stairs, doing lunges, squats, step ups, etc. The stair climber is good, but nothing is better than real life up and down stairs. I cannot stress enough the difficulty of the downhill hike and strain it put on my quads. As I prepare for my next rim to rim 4 months from now, this type of training is front and center.
- Temperature/Elevation adjustment. I hopped on a plane in St. Louis one day, spent the rest of the day in van, got a few hours of sleep then starting hiking down from the North rim. No high elevation training, no time in the desert, just showed up and got it done. This is probably a risky plan and ideally you should try to work in at least a few days in the desert heat and in the higher elevation to allow your body to adjust.
- Electrolytes and supplements. While I was happy with my food choices for the hike, I never got comfortable with any electrolyte drink mix, energy gels, “goo”, or really any supplement. I tried a few in training but wished I would have been confident enough in something to be able to rely on it when times got tough in the canyon and I needed a little boost. Many experts stress the importance of electrolytes replacement, and I brought Gatorade powder with me. However, I did not like the taste of it and could barely drink it while actually hiking. Will try to improve on this for the next one, and will be happy to take any suggestions from any of you.
- California Condor. Really, the lack thereof. I knew it was a long shot, but there is a small population of the extremely rare bird that calls the Grand Canyon home. I have followed the plight of this giant bird from the time I was a child, and I long ago gave up on ever having a chance to see one as I didn’t think they would survive in the wild. On this trip I really had hopes of seeing a California Condor, and my failure to do so still stings. This sign would have to do for now.
THE UGLY
- June in the Grand Canyon. A combination of room availability and family schedules helped set the date for our hike. Realistically a week or two earlier or waiting until September would have made more sense for us first time hikers. Lodging on the north rim isn’t available until May 15th, and closes again October 15th. Many people have died while hiking in the Grand Canyon, and the intense heat is often the source of the problem. Someday I will hike this in September after the rainy season and am sure it will be more enjoyable. As for this year, I’m rolling the dice again and taking on a June hike because it is the only time it works for our group. I just hope that I am more prepared for it this time around.
Helpful Links:
On Facebook, find:
Grand Canyon Hikers
Also there are several videos on YouTube of people completing their rim to rim hikes. For first time Grand Canyon hikers, watch them just to get a visual on what it is you are getting into. The first time I watched some of those videos my heart sunk and I got scared to death. It was another step to help motivate me to get my rear in gear and train harder.
That is all for now on the Grand Canyon. I am sure that I will post again as my 2018 trip gets closer. For now I need to put my head down, lace up my boots, and get training. Fortunately for me, Missouri is full of hills and full of many beautiful trails so I will at least enjoy putting in the work!